Kulantro brings Vietnamese street food to the Sawmill Market

The Kulantro Noodle Bowl topped with skewers of grilled rooster and shrimp and an egg roll. (Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal)

Albuquerque’s rich and different Vietnamese food scene has found new platforms in the container complexes and indoor foods markets that have sprouted up about town just lately.

It’s a reasonable match. Vietnamese street food items, with its prosperous, fragrant phos and crunchy spring rolls, lends alone to the quick-informal takeout manner proffered at these halls of dining.

You can get bánh mì sandwiches and beefy bowls of soup at the container complexes Green Jeans Farmery and Tin Can Alley, and now the Sawmill Market has gotten in on the act with the arrival of Kulantro in April.

Kulantro, one more phrase for the herb cilantro, stands on the location just lately vacated by the Japanese ramen stand Naruto. Kulantro’s operator Jason Doan was performing at Naruto when he observed the lack of Vietnamese offerings in the labyrinthine market. When the room opened up, he seized the opportunity and employed chef Diep Nguyen to create a menu.

Like most places at Sawmill, Kulantro has a tiny menu, with only 6 typical goods and a handful of seasonal specials. Protein choices like brisket, pork, rooster, shrimp and tofu occur served with conventional Vietnamese sauces around rice noodles or wrapped in rice paper. Costs operate from just about $7 for a skewer of meat for to about $20 for the assortment of meats that can make up the Kulantro Platter.

The area was undertaking regular enterprise when I visited throughout a current weekday lunch hour. A couple of servers and a prepare dinner worked nimbly in the cramped area that stands correct smack in the middle of Sawmill.

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You get a pager soon after you order and the food stuff will come out in a handful of minutes, just plenty of time to verify out the seating selections inside of the corridor and in the substantial patio out back. These days, the midday solar drives everyone either within or to the several big picnic tables below a garage-like framework behind the patio.

Kulantro’s Pho ($12.80) features a credible model of Vietnam’s most renowned avenue food. A pile of thinly sliced uncommon beef, brisket and sliced meatballs abetted the broth’s buttery richness, with additional taste from the sliced onions and cilantro. The clump of noodles just below the surface were suitably al dente. A mound of fresh new basil, sliced jalapeños and bean sprouts brought fragrance, warmth and crunch to the soup.

The burrito-sized spring rolls at Kulantro. (Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal)

Kulantro’s Spring Rolls ($8.60) have been notable generally for their size, with just about every of the two pieces sporting the dimensions and heft of massive burritos. The shrimp model had four items of shrimp faintly obvious by way of the slim gummy rice paper. Most of the bulk came from vermicelli noodles, with clean greens including some crunch. The thick peanut sauce accompanying the dish was a bit lifeless and necessary a enhance from lime wedges and packets of Sriracha.

The topic of generous servings continued in a exclusive version of the Kulantro Noodle Bowl ($17.60) served with an egg roll, two grilled shrimp and a selection of protein. The egg roll, sliced into thirds, was crispy and faintly redolent of shrimp. Together with it was a skewer absolutely jam-packed with items of moist, typically white meat chicken charred from the grill. The two shrimp served on a shorter skewer had been likewise nicely executed. Underpinning it all was a mattress of vermicelli noodles and greens tossed in a tart dressing. There was adequate for two to share. It is served with a cup of nuoc cham, the sweet and tangy Vietnamese dipping sauce with a spicy kick.

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I had hoped to test the Bao Sliders ($7.80) on steamed buns but they ended up out of stock.

Services was welcoming, the wait around periods ended up short. Most of the dishes are gluten-totally free or can be made that way. There are vegan possibilities far too.

Kulantro extends the access of Vietnamese delicacies to the Aged City space even though filling a market at Sawmill Market. It is a very good strategy perfectly executed.